Hawaii Highlight: The Honolulu Zoo

Elephant

The elephant eating his Christmas “Cake”

Being that the Honolulu Zoo is about the thirtieth zoo I have been to, and after having fed a rhino in Berlin and enjoyed a monorail ride in the Bronx, I tend to be disappointed in the smaller zoos.  However, Honolulu does not disappoint!

We visited on Christmas Eve day and the zoo was nearly deserted.  That was a plus for us as we like to take our time and linger, watching the animals and strolling through the tropical vegetation.  There were a lot of great exhibits – the monkeys (chimps, apes, etc.) were particularly fun, and we go to see an elephant eating a Christmas “cake” of fruits and vegetables.  Many of the animals were resting, but the zoo is organized so that you can see them even at that time.  An added bonus was the beautiful vegetation.  Make sure that you stop to check out the variety of trees and plants throughout the zoo.

There’s a discount for military – including spouses and children – which makes the zoo super-affordable.

Dragon

It’s a dragon!

There’s not much in the way of food except the usual burgers, salads, etc.  The gift shop is reasonably priced, but make sure to get something that actually says “Honolulu Zoo!”

Give yourself a solid three hours for a leisurely stroll.  You can see most everything in that timeframe.  Maybe longer if you have kids and want to stop at the petting zoo.  Parking is easy, though it costs $1 an hour (credit cards accepted).  Waikiki Beach is right there too – so bring your bathing suits!

Check out the photos from our trip!

And so comes change…

Courage.  That’s what I need.  Courage.Goodbye

Courage to face this new challenge in life.  Courage for my family to be all right while I’m gone.  Courage for my friends to persevere in their growth.  Courage for us all not to cry too many tears as we say good-bye for now.

For these many months, I’ve known this day has been coming.  It’s been on my calendar, part of a persistent daily countdown, and the cause of nearly all of my stress and anxiety.  I’ve focused on and accomplished the million and one steps its taken to get here, right here.  There is only one last step  – to step onto this plane and into a new chapter of my life.

I am frightened.  I am scared to death.  This feels like the biggest change of my life, and perhaps in some ways, it is.  It’s a risk.  I generally don’t take many risks.  Most of the choices I make, I’m sure about.  It’s not that I question Hawaii, it’s just that I don’t know what my future will look like.  For the first time, I have no image of where I’ll be in a year, or even in a week.  It’s entirely unknown and it’s god-awful frightening.

Because of you, my friends and family, I am courageous.  I will fight through this fear and get onto that plane.  I will have hope instead of apprehension about where my life will be next week, next year, next decade.

Because of you, I find the excitement inside.  The thought of spending Christmas on a beach and soaking up vitamin D every day of the year brings joy to my pale skin.  New friends to come, new adventures to follow, because of you, I can’t hold a frown today.  I might be leaving something behind, but what I bring with me is greater than anything I can carry.

Thank you all for your love and friendship.  For your support throughout these difficult months, for your kindness throughout all the difficult moments of my life.

For your smiles at my triumphs, for the tender moments we’ve shared.  Thank you for making me the best possible version of myself as I take this step.

This is not a good-bye, not by far.  My heart will carry you, and our home is always open for your visit.  Please do visit.

“The best things said come last.  People will talk for hours saying nothing much and then linger at the door with words that come with a rush from the heart.”  ~Alan Alda

I love you all – farewell, New York!

Renovation Nation: The Rest of the House

Instead of creating multiple blogs for relatively minor updates, I figured I would simply create one post and include all of the photos – since, well, we all know you’d rather see the “before and after” anyway!

Renovation Nation: The Kitchen

I have to admit, after the bathroom renovations, everything else just seems small in comparison.  Yet for me, I think the kitchen was my own personal triumph (me being Michelle).

Our kitchen is an old kitchen, but a workable one.  I hate the countertops, despise the fact that they couldn’t bring the cabinets to the ceiling, and am extremely confused by the fridge being on two different floor surfaces, but on the plus-side, the cabinets are large, the kitchen is big, and there’s lots of counterspace.

Instead of ripping the whole place apart, I decided to paint the cabinets and the walls and install all new hardware.  Brilliant me decided to do it on a weekend that Keith was away.  I should’ve know better when I began taking down the doors that it was going to be a long, grueling weekend.

I’m fairly certain the cabinets were never cleaned prior to our living there – or they were running a grease restaurant.  Each cabinet face was somewhat disfigured by painted-over dirt and grime.  I removed all of the hardware, and got to work cleaning and painting.

Lucky me had no idea the cabinet hardware was original to the house, and is no longer mass produced (as I learned from four different hardware stores).  So – all new hinges which I installed with a driver instead of a drill (how should I know the difference?) and mostly, with some elbow grease.

The result of all of this hard work?  A whole new kitchen!  After the paint went on the walls, I couldn’t believe how much brighter, cleaner, and happier the room looked.  From its drabby gray walls and plastic hardware to some brushed nickel and celery green paint, it was a total transformation.

Check it out below.  What do you think?  Did the hard work pay off?

Next up on Renovation Nation (Bauer Edition)?  The Bedrooms!

Renovation Nation: The Bathrooms

Y’all excited to see the results of our renovations?  How could you not be?  After all, now that we no longer live in our house, it’s not really possible for you to come over for a visit and check it out.

We thought we’d begin with the bathrooms.  That’s right – plural bathrooms.  Over the summer, we tore down the walls on the ground level of our house and began a major construction project with our awesome contractor, SE Kitchen and Bath.

After years of being unable to use the downstairs toilet due to a layout that ought to make a photosite of bad design somewhere, it was extraordinarily exciting to start the process.  We tore down the walls and ceilings ourselves (okay, mostly Keith – I emptied out the rubbish and put a nail through my toe) and our contractor did the rest.

He installed a new toilet, vanity, lighting, and – yes – a shower!  New tile floors, and a newly created laundry room with California closet.  Heaven on earth!

I can’t seem to locate the pre-reno photos, so you’ll have to do with only the post-reno ones.  Check it out in the gallery below.

Upstairs, the construction was a little less severe.  With tiles falling through the wall, we knew we had to do something.  (Turns out the tiles were placed on sheetrock, and not the hardy backer-board that is much sturdier, resists mold and is designed for tile and bathroom use.)

We tore apart the shower, raised the showerhead quite a bit to match Keith’s height, and ripped up the floor.  New tile was installed by our Russian friends at V&S Tile.  We decided to go all the way to the ceiling with it – it just looks better.  The floor was also tiled, and with new base molding, a few coats of paint, and new hardware in the shower, it is indeed a prettier, cleaner, nicer bathroom.

What do you think of the upgrades upstairs?

Next up on Renovation Nation (Bauer Edition)?  The kitchen!

What I’m thankful for…

It’s been a tough week.  In fact, it’s been a tough couple of months.  Between dealing with the seemingly permanent infertility and the painfully hopefully temporary good-byes and farewells, I’m surprised I haven’t imploded with the emotional breakdown of the century.

I’ve been here before – that place of near hopelessness where it seems God has a vendetta against me and my happiness.  It’s different today.  Today I’m not weeping in a pool of tears, but rather numbingly accomplishing each and every little task necessary to move forward.  It may not seem like a joyful Thanksgiving by my own description, but believe me, this is one of the best Thanksgivings of my life.

There have been endless “thankful for this” and “thankful for that” status updates on Facebook.  I’ve gotten two dozen eNewsletters with the same message – and even a robocall from a local car dealership thanking me for existing in their sales demographic.  Now, I figure it’s my turn to join in with the corn.

While I am grateful for the things in my life, I could do without all of them.  It’s the people who make the difference.

I’m thankful for my incredible husband, Keith, who has been there with me through my lunacy and dorky jokes – through the myriad of fertility shots and the insanity of working at a nonprofit in transition.  I’m thankful that he’ll still talk instead of yell, and that he brings me flowers for no other reason than to make me smile.  I’m thankful that he’s my best friend and through that friendship and love, I am a better human being.

I’m thankful for my incredible family.  My mother, Laura, whose strength, courage and endurance baffle me.  She should be wearing a superhero outfit all of the time.  Her endless devotion to her children, including giving up her entire life for us at times, makes her either a masochist or the world’s best mother.  She is beautiful and kind and everything good in me is from her.  My brother Andy got the creative gene leftover from my birth.  He’s incredibly talented and devoted to his craft.  From the boy I used to read silly stories to at night to the young man making his mark in the woodturning community, he will always be my little bro.  And my sister Colleen?  She is really something.  She’ll stick her neck out for anyone she loves, as far as it can go.  She’s ambitious and smart and will make strides in the world, wherever she goes.  And yes, she’s prettier than me.  And, of course, my Aunt Linda, Uncle Danny, and cousins Cory and Tyler – my last connection to Long Island and the place I call my hometown.

My Texas family holds a particular spot in my heart from the other side of the family.  Bill and Gail, Tiffaney, Jennifer and Rafael (and the girls!) have sustained in their compassion an important bond to the other side of the family, and a supportive and candid conversation about the trials of infertility.

My Danish family may not be nearby, but they’re always in my heart.  My Great Aunt Henny is hands down the world’s greatest cook, and I can never get over how cozy her and her heart are.  Aunt Kathleen, Uncle Thomas and cousin Christoffer visit stateside nearly every other year and have brought out the best in our family with their kindness and generosity.  Being with them just feels like home.  Aunt Merete (Etta!), Uncle Karl, and cousins Jenna and Kaspar who all have such beautiful blonde hair and such a warm sense of family.  And who can forget Uncle Richard whose ambition and energy have no rival.

For my “new” family – Lesley and Nishant – and Ojal of course, Denise (mom!) and Bob, Betty and Tom (dad!), Elizabeth and Rick, and all of the Bauers/Cornells/Khattars/Runyans and so on and so forth.  It’s been such a pleasure being welcomed into another wacky (but in a good way) family tree.

I’m thankful for my incredible friends, which is a list so long that I’ll inevitably leave off people who deserve to be here.  Please accept my apology in advance.

Jackie, who has been there every single time that I’ve needed her, even when I didn’t know I did.  There are no limits to what she’ll do to help a hurting friend.  And, she’s insanely talented when she puts her mind to it.  I’d say the same of Emilee, whose design work is so damn impeccable I can’t believe she’s not running her own empire by now.  She taught me what friendship really means and raised the bar for the new friendships I make in the future.

Kristy Lee, Marcus, Kaylee and Albert, Ted and Linda.  What a family the Hochenberger-Witts are!  Not only fabulous friends, but much more like family.  There’s a resilience there that I hope my own family can emanate in the future.  From “clinking” to baptisms, it’s been a long and remarkable ride.  You’ll never meet a family so dedicated to family and those that they love – nor one so ambitious!

And for Amy, of course, who has been there in the trenches with me – fighting the good fight.  One of very few who can relate to the pain of loss and semi-poverty.  Working with her now, though it’s a new side to our friendship, has brought a new, shining star to the nonprofit world – and a new, fun and fantastic element to our friendship.  For Jonelle, whose non-stop support has never wavered or waned.  I can only hope to someday be as non-judgmental and optimistic as she is.  It’s a really remarkable trait.

For Colleen who can somehow have the loudest, and the most timid, voice in the room.  A strong, creative, and compassionate woman whose kindness knows no bounds.  And for Kyle, Colleen’s husband, who gave me hope that real, loving relationships exist.  For Sara, who I met when she was just a high school student looking to change the world.  Just a few years down the line, she already has.  She fuels my idealism for a better future.  For Sara’s mom, Mary Ann, and her boyfriend Chris, who all remind me that a small family can be a great one.

Kirby, the bestest of all of my guy friends.  He may not always reply right away, but his heart is always available when needed.  It seems he turns up at the most perfect moments when all the world has deserted you.  Smart, witty and one of the best-dressed males that I know.  And now for his girlfriend, Rebecca, who seems to bring him nothing but smiles.  For Ruth, who has taught me how to put someone else first on my priority list and whose heart and wisdom are ten feet taller than her.  For Karen, who may run away without saying good-bye, but will always be back to say hello and remind you that you’re still in her phone book.

For Deb, whose humor rivals Chelsea Handler (no, okay, it’s better), and who can always put a smile on my face.  She’s an incredible mother and her son will never want for a laugh.  For Rebecca, another stupendous mother who walks softly, but for sure carries a big stick.  She has always had a knack to take pleasure in the most simple parts of life, and share that with those around her.

Jennifer, who not only does an absolutely awesome job on my hair, but makes me feel gorgeous.  It takes a lot to do that, and it doesn’t hurt that she’s the sweetest girl I know.  Very girl-next-door, but with a margarita in hand and an open ear for whatever ails you.  Kelly, who can be the most professional and demure girl in the room one minute and the craziest, silliest girl the next.  Definitely someone who taught me how to unwind after a wound up day.  And for her husband Blake, who matches her silliness-to-silliness.

For Chris, who is such a gentle soul.  He has a way with words that can make any bad day better.  For Pam, who can equally achieve that with a hilarious belly of laughs and a near painful honest sarcasm that I’ll miss desperately.  For Bird (and yes, that’s his name) who could not be a better friend and kinder man.  Thanks for carrying me on my worst night of nights!

Michael – the hilarious doctor who’d never been camping but took a chance on our pop-up.  I’ll miss the opportunity to debate and converse about the latest infertility research or neuroscience development.  Mary, who is the perfect fit for such a guy, and whose time I wish I had stolen more of throughout the years.  A fun-loving, all-around awesome gal.  For Kerrie, and the love of her life Louis, for giving me a new appreciation for wine and reminding me to relish in every moment life brings.

For my college friends and roommates, those that I am still in touch with and those that simply hold a happy memory in my heart.  Stephanie, Jackie, Ed, and many others – you were all such an important part of my becoming who I am today.  I should say the same of my post-graduation Binghamton buds and colleagues, as well as those whose friendships stem from high school – and even elementary (Colleen!)!  Though many of us have lost touch, you know who you are.

Michaelene and Stephen, who have always been there for me throughout the years.  Their relationship and love is unmatched in today’s world.  Their humor is even more so.  Chuck and Mary and the Gusts, who made me feel more like family in the first five minutes than I have with some actual family in my entire life.

For the incredible women I’ve worked with throughout the years, without whom New York’s children and families would not have half the strength that they do today.  Jenn, Susan and Liz, Aileen – you better keep up the good fight!

And of course for the Navy folks that I’ve met.  Mitch, our wedding reverend, and his awesome wife Nikki and their equally if not more awesome kids Eden and Mitch Jr.  Chance and Courtney, one of the most fun-loving pairs I’ve ever met.  Chris and Jess, who I can’t help but wish they lived right next door – I get the feeling Jess and I would take siestas while the boys went shooting every Sunday.  Jeremy (Geno!) and Regina, by far the loudest of our Navy friends but awesomely so and ridiculously dedicated to our four-legged friends.  Rodger, who I pushed out the door when I moved in with Keith (or, well, Keith did that) and who kindly explained how a car engine works and reassured me how much Keith liked me.  I can’t forget to mention Doug, who has been one of our best friends recently and made this entire move easier with his generosity.  Plus, who doesn’t like a guy who sews?

I know there are many others that I have missed – those in the Beer Group, the women’s group, others that I have worked with, lived with, partied with, and laughed with.  I’m sorry if I’ve missed you.  It wasn’t my intention and I hope that you know how much you’ve meant to me (or otherwise you can comment below and yell at me for being so cruel as to forget you).  🙂

There are three people who I’m especially thankful for this Thanksgiving, but I can’t hug or thank either of them in person.  First, Keith’s friend Marty.  Even though I’ve never met him, whenever Keith speaks about him there’s this light and longing in his eyes that only happens in those moments.  The only real tears that my husband’s shed have been in remembering Marty and the impact he has on his life.  I wish so much that I could have met him, because I know Keith wouldn’t be the man he is today without having done so.

And lastly, I’m thankful for my grandmothers.  My dad’s mom, Helen, was one of the most beautiful women I’ve known.  Her southern accent and old Savannah style are unmatched to this day.  Some of the advice she gave me in the short times I spent with her still ring true in my ears today.

My mom’s mom, Anne.  There is no one on this great big earth that I miss more than her.  How much I would give that she could share this Thanksgiving with us.  It was 2005 the last time we hugged goodbye.  Thanksgiving was the last holiday that we spent together, and I could swear that she knew it would be.  My grandmother was the best human being I’ve ever known.  She loved me so fiercely and so overwhelmingly.  I didn’t know someone could love their grandchild that much.  I miss her desperately, and am so incredibly grateful that she was a part of my life for so many years.  She is my angel now and I can see her in brief moments when my mom talks, or makes a joke, or laughs.  I am eternally thankful to have known her and for her to have known me.

In the end, it is the people that count, not the things or the sales.  Thank you to all of my family and friends for bringing me such joy.  You give the meaning to Thanksgiving.

Grief

They say that grief comes in waves – that a smell, a sound, a sight will act as a reminder to inflame your heartache.  They say that every start is mixed with equal parts grief and hope.  They say a lot of things about change too – that it’s part of life, that it’s good, that it means you’re still moving.

Lately, it’s seemed grief has come like a series of tsunamis.  In my heart, I know that this move and all of the enormous changes of the past few years have added more than they’ve subtracted.  I’ve met the man of my dreams, found a job that I love, nurtured a balanced life and began (and come far along) a path toward health and happiness.  I’ve gained so much – a new family, a new home, new opportunities abound.  But in the shadow of this success there is a lot of hurt left behind.

Each day seems to bring a new loss.  We’ve renovated the house only to leave it.  We’ve sold Keith’s truck, and trashed many of our unnecessary belongings.  And today, we’ve said good-bye to our last two kitties, who have found a temporary home with our good friend Ruth.

It’s snowing today in New York.  In some parts, I hear they’re buried in it.  Here in Saratoga we have just a sprinkling – that first sweet snow that comes with the cold.  I’m going to miss the snow, despite the headaches that it causes.  I’ll miss mostly those quiet peaceful moments watching it come down on our back deck, marveling at how beautiful it looks covering the tree branches.  Those moments bring an unmatched warmth to my heart and peace in my soul.  I can remember being fourteen years old and watching the snow come down late Christmas Eve while everyone else was asleep.  I felt safe in that moment.  I felt blessed to see nature’s beauty.  Christmastime is my favorite time of the year.  It’s a time of parties, gatherings, gifts.  I love knowing that when I’m in the store, most of the other folks there are shopping for others and not themselves.  Although consumerism has made the holiday season rather selfish, it also brings about the best in all of us.  Reminds us of others needs – encourages us to give and give much.  It brings me together with my family and friends to celebrate our relationships and laugh at all the times we’ve faltered throughout the past year.

This year is different.  This year there won’t be a family get-together on Christmas Day.  There won’t be holiday parties to attend or a string to hang cards from.  There won’t be a fresh-cut tree in our living room or pretty garland and lights around our front porch columns.  There won’t be snow on Christmas Eve for me, not this year.

Everyone keeps reminding me to think about what I’m gaining, and not what I’m losing.  It’s a hard thing to do when you’re surrounded by everything you want to keep.  It’s a hard thing to leave the place where you joy started – to leap out into the unknown and take a chance on a new adventure.

I’m not a risk taker, despite what you may think.  I always want the sure bet.  To be good enough to sail the ship without sinking.  To at least survive, if not thrive.  I don’t often take a leap of faith.  I don’t often leave my own comfort zone.  And now, I’m skydiving from 30,000 feet.  I don’t know where I’ll land, or whether or not I’ll land softly or with injury, but I’m in the plane, I’ve packed my chute, and I’m ready to take on this new adventure.  But before I go, I still have a few more tears to shed and moments to reminisce.  Bear with me, friends.  The tears will stop soon enough and what begins now doesn’t close the door on what was before.  It’s just time to fly.

I’m so tired, but I can’t sleep…

I haven’t slept well over the last few weeks. I’m exhausted, excited, overwhelmed, and exhilarated all at the same time.

In 44 days, I’ll be in Hawaii. In 20 or so, I’ll be leaving Saratoga. And only now am I starting to really understand what all of that means.

I can’t stop thinking. Thinking about the move and all of the myriad of things we need to get done beforehand. Thinking about the chock-full schedule that October is with nearly every evening filled with yet another good-bye dinner. I’ll be shocked if I don’t gain 25 pounds between now and November.

I’m also thinking about work. About the awesome grant we just won, and the umpteen hours of work that I need to put in this month and next to prepare the organization both for my transition and for this new work.

Thinking about my friends. Thinking about Karen, who’s moved to Georgia, and Pam, who’s moved to Florida. Thinking about all of the other friends who don’t have the time to get together before we go.

Thinking about my family. About my mom who won’t have me around for Christmas for the first time in many, many years. Thinking about the family I just saw in Denmark and the years that will pass before I see them again.

Also thinking about the holidays. Thinking about how Thanksgiving will be my last hurrah, and how lovely or not it will be to celebrate Christmas on the beach. About the New Year in someplace warm rather than the snow-covered streets of downtown Toga.

I’m thinking about our cats, and where they are going to go. Thinking about how devastated I will be if we have to turn them into a shelter and thinking about ways to convince friends or family to take them in.

My head is full of so many thoughts that I’ve blown a fuse, except this fuse keeps the electricity running without pause.

In the past, I’ve always had a difficult time moving. It was hard to say good-bye to my life, wherever I was. To close that chapter and move on to the next. Mostly, the next chapter was so full of uncertainty that the possibility of joy was so far off as to hide behind any horizon of hope.

This time is different. This time I’m moving with my best friend, and we have help. From movers to plane tickets to housing, we mostly have to prepare and let the professionals do the rest. Don’t get me wrong, it’s quite an overwhelming thing to inventory your entire house and go through each and every room tossing unnecessary belongings so as to reduce the freight weight… But it’s nothing like trying to pack and move yourself. And having the emotional support of a spouse, a friend, in a new and foreign place is priceless.

This time I’m moving somewhere amazing. I do love New York. It’s an incredible and awesome state, no matter what anyone tells you about our taxes or our traffic. It’s truly a melting pot and so full of vibrance and life that it’s hard for me to let go. Hawaii… is a horse of a different color. It’s like a really long vacation where we get a house twice the size of ours ten minutes from a gorgeous beach with a pool, clubhouse, discounted groceries and Coach purses, and the opportunity to learn and explore a new culture, a new climate, a new world. Hawaii is more of an adventure than moving to another New York city.

But, there are negative differences too. This time it won’t just be a two or three hour drive to see those I’ve left behind. This time it’ll be years until I return and when I do, I won’t have a home base to rest my feet on. I will be a visitor, a tourist, a familiar stranger.

Leaving everyone and everything behind is more difficult than I could have ever imagined. Though I believe my life in Hawaii will not only rival, but exceed the life I have here, it feels a hollow hope without those whose friendship and love I have found here. My eyes well with tears just thinking about saying good-bye.

Finding support for this kind of change is difficult. Even searching the internet for “how to say good-bye” brings almost nothing about a move (though there’s plenty of material if you’re trying to write a eulogy). Other wives and even my own husband know relocation as a way of life. For me, I hope that I never come to that understanding. I hope that I will always invest this much in my new hometown, even if it means experiencing the excruciating pain of letting go when the time comes.

Sometimes, when I’m saddened by the move, I listen to old Hawaiian songs. Hawaiians seem to know a lot about farewells and how to put the language to music that soothes the wearied soul. It helps to appreciate the sweetness in the torment of Hawaii, if just to understand its people and experience the beauty they bring to the world.

Now is a time of reminiscing for me. Of finding sentiment in every object and moment. Of annoying the hell out of my husband who would move just one cardboard box of junk if he could. But it should, and it is, also a time of happiness for me, and for Keith. Happiness to start this new adventure together.

Mostly, I think that I’m up all night not just because my head is full of never-ending thoughts and checklists, but because this move signifies something so much more than just relocating my home. This move signifies the end of an era: though it may have already been a dying time, it hasn’t yet concluded. There’s more to the story before the book ends.

And so, I work to come to terms with the ending of one chapter by opening my eyes to the beauty and possibility of the next paragraph.

A Going Away Soiree

Aloha friends!

Our apologies for taking so long to get to this blog post, but with the myriad of moving/work/fertility stuffs, it’s been nearly impossible to find time to post.

Our Going Away Soiree was really a lovely night – full of yummy food and sweet desserts, good friends old and new, and teary-eyed farewells (for now).

Thanks to those who made the trip, and to those who braved the Aloha cut-outs for my photo album.  For those who couldn’t make it, we thank you for your sentiments and notes!

A very special thank you to Emilee, Jackie, Rebecca, Keith’s mom and my mom – for all of your help cooking/cleaning/setting up!

Click here for some of the fun photos!

Eurotrip, Part 4: Greater Copenhagen

We wrapped up our Europe 2012 trip with three days in Greater Copenhagen, a beautiful, old “Venice of the North” city and historic surrounding towns.

Aunt Kathleen recommended that we spend the day in Roskilde, an old, old, old city about a half hour from Copenhagen.  Taking her advice, we hopped the train and arrived in the ancient city, founded more than 1,000 years ago.  Roskilde Cathedral is the town’s centerpiece, accessible through cobblestone pedestrian streets.  The Cathedral boasts more graves than I could count, all of the Danish royalty since the 15th century.  The coffins and headstones are both beautiful and frightening, adorned with roses and skulls.  What’s most interesting is how the headstones line the floor, and you can have to actually walk on top of them.

From the Cathedral, we strolled through the park to the uber-cool Viking Museum.  There, you can see up-close-and-personal how they made viking ships a thousand years ago.  Museum staff use only the tools that were available to viking shipmakers, and attempt as best as they can to use the same types of wood.  Even in cutting down the trees, it’s done in the same fashion as the vikings.  Even cooler are the five viking ships that were resurrected from the nearby bay about thirty years ago.  These ships represent one of the world’s largest and most important historical maritime finds.  From a warship to a cargo boat, the ships were brought out of the bay and reconstructed.  Can you believe it took twenty-five years to complete the feat?

The next day we took another day trip up to Helsingor, the location of Kronborg Slot – otherwise known as Hamlet’s castle.  Walking the short mile or so to the castle, you come across the moat – yes, a real moat!  Over the bridge and through the manmade hills surrounding the castle grounds, automatic speakers begin telling the story of Kronborg Castle.  The grounds are beautiful, poised right on a peninsula overlooking Helsingborg in Sweden.  We took a self-guided tour of the beautiful royal apartments, traveling through Danish royal history.  Much of the castle is original and it’s pretty incredible to see the beautiful artwork, rugs, and furniture that remains.  The ballroom is spectacular, with views of the courtyard and bay and two giant, gorgeous fireplaces.

After checking out the castle and the enormous courtyard, we went down to the casements, where a giant sculpture of Holger the Dane presides over the entrance.  There’s a vending machine that dispenses flashlights so you don’t end up falling into one of the many openings between floors.  I had no idea how dark and damp the casements would be, or that they actually housed so many soldiers.  If ghosts exist, I imagine this is one place they’d thrive in.  Luckily, I was short enough to walk through and see the sunshine, though Keith had to do a bit of ducking throughout.  We finished out our Kronborg tour with a walk through the maritime museum.

Since Sweden is so close, we decided to take the ferry and explore.  Helsingborg has an old-world feel, with small, quaint shops and pedestrian shopping streets.  We visited a restaurant reminiscent of a 1950s American diner with burgers too big to handle, delivered in small, paper classic cars.  Topping off the burger and fries was the perfect chocolate milkshake.  Then, we were off for a scenic train ride back to Copenhagen.

Our last day in Europe was spent enjoying the city.  We walked through Stroget, the world’s largest pedestrian-only area, to take a canal boat ride through Copenhagen.  It’s a great way to see the city without braving the unpredictable autumn weather.  We saw the little mermaid (and yes, she’s little) and the beautiful, unique opera house.  We had lunch at Nyhavn (pork and red cabbage, of course) and stopped to watch a bubblemaker.

Our last night we had yet another delicious experience at a local french restaurant.  I adore the idea of sitting outside in the cool air, with a nice, warm blanket, and, of course, a heat lamp.  Keith and I sampled six delicious cheeses and drank our last European wine.  It was a lovely and fitting end for a sweet and memorable vacation.

Leaving Copenhagen was hard.  It wasn’t just the annoyance of sitting in seats with broken headphone jacks, but leaving a place that I love – and that seems to love me back.  Denmark just feels like home – the people, the culture, the food!  Europe is full of history, from incredible museums to a story behind every age-old building.  It’s also full of this indescribable love of life, and love for one another.

Photos from Copenhagen